HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR SKIN THIS WINTER

As we begin the new year, we are faced with the effects of the cold and drier winter air. Cold air lacks humidity stripping our skin of important lipids and moisture that keep our skin hydrated.

The indoor heat of our offices, homes, or cars will also cause a dry environment then contributing to the concern of flaking skin, potential dull appearance, and sensitivity. 

Our outermost layer, called the stratum corneum, consists of skin cells called corneocytes bound together by mortar-like lipids or fats, this is our skin barrier. 

These lipids are a combination of ceramides (approx. 40-50%), fatty acids, (approx. 20%) and cholesterol (approx. 25%). The main function of these lipids is the formation of the skin barrier. They help provide the skin not only with moisture but also create a seal on the skin to prevent water evaporation. A healthy, functioning skin barrier keeps you protected against pollution, toxins, irritants and keeps the lower skin layers from losing water.

When the lipids and ceramides that make up the “mortar” of your barrier are damaged, signs can be seen as dry, flaky, red or inflamed skin; some may even see an increase in eczema and psoriasis cases. During times where we are exposed to drier climates and increased indoor heat exposure, our lipid barrier is negatively impacted leading to dehydration. Without that natural lipid barrier our skin dries up and the skin experiences trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). At the start of winter, natural enzymes in the skin reduce their activity and are therefore less able to produce lipids and ceramides. This then reduces NMF’s (Natural Moisturizing Factors) as well as a decline in controlling TEWL therefore causing dryness. Replacing the lipids and water, will help rebalance the barrier increasing the normal function of the skin leading to less water loss and a healthy barrier. 

Additionally, lifestyle changes in winter, eating an increased diet of comfort foods, can lead to a disruption to the hormonal balance of the skin. An increase in dry, flaky skin can clog pores also leading to more acne. 

Of course, Hyaluronic Acid is key to any skincare routine to build up water retention, but as discussed, the skin also needs lipids (fats) as the acid mantle is composed of both. The main function of these lipids is the formation of the skin barrier and preventing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Reapplying water when there is a decrease function in lipids, will only evaporate more water leading to an increase in product use and a continuing drier skin. 

As we’ve discussed, your skin barrier is already composed of and makes its own lipids, but as the drier climate depletes our stored amount, we must replenish them. Sphingolipids and Ceramides are some ingredients that can help build up our own skin’s production of fats. 

Sphingolipids are a complex family of compounds that play structural roles such as maintenance of the water barrier of the skin and to serve as an important intra and extra-cellular epidermal signaling. They participate in the regulation of cell growth, tissue development, cell recognition and adhesion and are a precursor to ceramides helping the skin to make more ceramides. 

Ceramides are a type of sphingolipid. They are the “glue” that holds our skin barrier together making up 50% of the barrier keeping our skin healthy. These can encourage your skin to produce the correct balance of lipids to protect it from the environment by retaining hydration and making better mortar.  As we age or develop compromised skin, the production of ceramides decreases but we can replenish this action by using fatty acids such as ceramides and products that contain Omega 3’s. 

Phospholipids make up the cell wall assisting in the reparative function being that they are one part hydrophilic, water loving and hydrophobic, meaning they do not dissolve in water, creating a barrier sealing in products, i.e. water. They are messengers, selecting what enters and leaves the cell, in this case, what ingredient. 

The first step in our routines is cleansing our skin. It is not unusual for people to switch out their normal cleanser for something a little gentler during the colder months to accommodate the changes in their skin. If you are finding your skin feeling a bit tight after cleansing that is a good indicator you should use a different cleanser until the humidity increases in the atmosphere again. Many people will use gel-based cleanser during summer for a deep cleanse, but during the winter oil or cream-based cleansers are best. They will allow your skin to be cleansed in a gentle manner without over stripping or irritating the lipid barrier. 

You could look for cleansers that contain humectants in them to boost hydration levels in the skin. Humectants are naturally found in our skin and are a popular component of skin care products. They will help attract water and hold it into the skin to increase water levels and diminish the appearance of crepe-looking skin. These could be cleansers incorporating ingredients like alpha hydroxy acids (AHA’s), glycerin, or honey (to name a few-there are many more).

Cleansers rich in ingredients like cold-pressed oils would also have increased benefits for skin suffering from winter weather. These oils such as avocado, soya, argan and many others will contain high amounts of fatty acids, two key ones being Linolenic and Linoleic, which will contribute to the overall moisture and functionality of the skin and reduce TEWL. They also will contain amounts of minerals, vitamins, and antioxidants to restore skin health back to optimal function.

A great option for a cleanser is the Replenish Ultra Hydrating Cleanser. Replenish hydration with this complexion-perfecting cleanser that offers natural moisturizing factors that optimize skin radiance and texture. Moisture attracting Hyaluronic Acid, Sea Vegetable and Argan Extract help replenish humectants which result in a smoother more radiant complexion. Containing Glycoderm P an intensive hydration Complex, Argassential™ to plump and firm skin and Snap-8™ a powerhouse peptide solution to reduce expression wrinkles. 

Gentle exfoliation should still be incorporated into our routines even in winter to make sure the products we are using to replenish the skin are penetrating effectively. Exfoliation can happen in a variety of forms from mechanical to enzymatic and even AHAs.

 Wild Yam & Licorice is a fine-grained, powdered exfoliant that is a light facial scrub, that refines and polishes the skin, restoring radiance as it gently removes dead surface cells with the refining action of natural grains and naturally derived fruit enzymes. Containing Wild Yam, a Collagen-friendly antioxidant, and Licorice Root extract to help brighten and lighten the skin with nourishing seaweed extract and Burdock extract to gently hydrate and sooth the skin.

Applied as masque, Banana Souffle is a gentle, enzymatic exfoliant that smooths and refines skin texture to reveal a radiant, natural glow. Containing Pineapple fruit enzymes, this nonabrasive exfoliant will help to decongest pores, while removing dead skin cells, without manual scrubbing. Banana fruit extract contains Calcium, Magnesium and Potassium as well as B6 and B12 and is highly recommended for the treatment of dry mature skin. Nourishing extracts of Avocado oil, Coconut oil and Calendula Oil calm and nourish the skin. Organic Licorice Root Extract gives your skin an extra boost with its powerful brightening properties.

Containing 16 moisture-retaining ingredients, the HydraVite Toner boosts the skin’s hydration within seconds. This is a refreshing blend of hydrating Panthenol and a Copper Complex, is scented with fragrant Lavender and Rose essential oils, instantly saturating parched skin by capturing cooling moisture deep within skin layers – where moisture’s comfort is needed most.

Incorporating a good serum and cream combo into your skin care routine is essential to combat the harsh climate. When looking for serums you have the option between water or lipid-based formulations. Water based formulations that contain ingredients like Hyaluronic Acid and other powerful humectants are key for combating dehydration caused by a lipid deficiency in the skin. It is also just as important to include serums and creams afterwards that are rich in cold pressed oils, ceramides, and other lipids (like EFAs) to seal in that hydration and restore the moisture levels and barrier function of the skin. This is your greatest chance at combating the common characteristics and unpleasant feeling of dry and irritated skin.

A powerful serum/cream combination for this time of year is the Hydralift Serum and Hydralift Intensive Complex. This combination is immensely powerful for hydrating. 

The serum contains Ultra Filling Spheres™, which will act like water balloons expanding within the skin to boost water levels and lift from beneath for a younger looking skin. The serum also contains Inca Inchi Lipactive™ which is high in Omega 3, 6 and 9 to boost the lipid content on the skin as well as Sesaflash which will help the skin hold onto hydration for long periods of time. The matching cream also contains all those advanced hydrating ingredients as well as peptide technology and Renovage™ to promote a younger complexion and some shea, mango and cocoa butter for a nice creamy layer to seal and protect skin.

Alternatively, if you are experiencing more reactivity in your skin, the duo for you would be the Recovery Serum and Recovery Defense Crème. The serum contains 15% Arnica Extract which is a well known and widely used anti inflammatory, cucumber seed oil to improve moisture balance and Defensil™-Plus which targets dry, itchy, reactive skin to reduce the inflammatory process. The Recovery Cream also contains Telangyn which reduces the inflammatory effect in the skin by minimizing interleukin 6&8, as well as peptide technology that relieves the itching sensation on the skin.

Whether you chose Serum 45 or 55+ these nourishing, regenerative pro aging blend of carrier oils support the skin through the aging process. The essential fatty acids maintain the efficiency of the skin barrier and have rejuvenating and pro aging effects, preventing dehydration in lipid dry skin and minimizing the appearance of fine lines. Containing a large content of antioxidants it helps all skin types neutralize free radical damage. The wonderful blended essential oils like Sweet Orange, Neroli and Geranium uplift the spirits and promotes a positive and joyful mood. While Lavender promotes emotional stability, calms, balances while nourishing and treating the skin.

Utilizing a masque will bring about optimal hydration and nourishment and can complement the serums and creams you are using quite well.

 For winter skin the Hydrating Masque is a perfect fit. This masque can be applied on the skin and left for 20 minutes and removed, or arguably even better, you can apply put it on after your serums during a night routine and sleep with the masque on. The Hydrating Masque smells and feels amazing on the skin, containing Witch Hazel for its anti-inflammatory effects, Green Tea to fight free radicals with its antioxidant components, low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid which will be able to hydrate the skin from a deeper level and Vitamin E which protects the skin against free radical damage and replenishes the lipid barrier function.   

The final component is sunscreen. It can be easy to forget SPF during the wintertime as we have a lower risk of burning, however, protecting the skin from the sun’s rays reflecting off the snow that can bounce back onto our skin can still increase the risk for skin cancer and accelerate the aging process. 

Enviro Defense SPF50 is not only a sunscreen but a lightweight moisturizer protecting the skin from harmful UV rays. Safflower Seed Oil forms a barrier on the skin which prevents water from escaping leaving the skin soft and smooth. High concentrations of antioxidants such as Vitamins A, C and E and Carrot Root Extract containing Beta-Carotene, protect the barrier and improve the look of texture and wrinkles.