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Glycation In the Golden Years

Do you have clients that appear to be aging prematurely? Research in this specific area of aging has gone on for years and it is only in the past 10 years that we have finally come to understand the concept of Glycation, the production and the accumulation of Glycation End Products or AGES’s Everyone is susceptible to the ravages of Glycation regardless of age. The effects of Glycation can start to appear in the skin as early as age 20 and then continue to accumulate annually. So, the question remains: Should we as professionals be talking prevention to our younger clients not just correction and repair in our mature clients? I think we all know the answer to that question.

These A.G.E’s have now been scientifically associated with age related degenerative diseases not just in the body but also specifically the skin. They seem to adversely affect virtually all cells, tissues and organ systems. On the skin there seems to be a correlation between the accumulation of A.G.E’s and Eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, hyperpigmentation and of course skin cancer.

They are found in much higher amounts in those with diabetes and those who are post menopausal. The big question then ,is how we can support our clients in their golden years, particularly those age 60 and beyond and counteract the damaging effect of A.G.E’s using facial treatments, great home care and definitely some lifestyle changes.

Understanding Glycation

To start, we need to understand the process of Glycation. It is a complex process that starts with something called the Maillard Reaction. Let’s look at this in more simple terms.

Step 1

First a glucose molecule (sugar) attaches to a free amino acid, in other words the sugar binds with a protein in a non enzymatic way to form a Schiff base. (Think about adding BBQ sauce to your steak on the hot grill and how it forms a crispy coating) This analogy is sort of what happens in the skin.

  • A Schiff base is a compound that is dependent on Glucose. If the glucose concentration decreases this reaction is reversible.

Step 2

  • The Amadori reaction.

The Schiff base undergoes another chemical rearrangement to create the Amadori reaction creating early glycation products. At this point the reaction is still reversible.

However: If there is an accumulation of Amadori reactions, they will go through a further chemical rearrangement and forms cross linked proteins. This process is not irreversible, with the final outcome being A.G.E’s and interference with protein reactions.

Let’s be Specific and Talk Skin.

In the skin, AGE’s cause protein fibers, in this case the collagen fibers to become stiff and malformed as a result of the crosslinking in the Amadori phase of Glycation. To add to this, research has shown a dependence between AGE ‘s accumulation and protein turnover rate, meaning that collagen types 1 and IV exhibit slow turnover along with proteins like fibronectin (found in the extracellular matrix) that is involved in intracellular signaling.

How does all this affect the appearance of the skin? Collagen is a powerful protein responsible for the plumpness, firmness and hydration or buoyancy of the skin. Collagen glycation can change the way the skin looks in several ways, speeding up the aging process and making the skin age prematurely.

  • Stiffness and decrease flexibility
  • Wrinkle formation
  • Loss of volume and tone causing sagging of the tissues
  • Vulnerability to sun damage
Two Main Sources of Formation of AGE’s
  • Exogenously – Mainly by the foods that we consume.
  • Endogenously: – Those that form in the body. These AGE’s tend to occur with greater concentration in mature adults.
Let’s Explore Lifestyle adjustments.

Diet, Excess exposure to UV rays and smoking have all been linked to higher levels of AGE’s as well as internal inflammaging. Step one is to make simple adjustments to diet and sleep. Introducing skin building and protective ingredients in addition to ingredients that support cellular turnover will definitely help perimenopausal clients and those that are younger also experiencing premature aging. This combined approach will help to delay the damaging effects of glycation.

Things to Consider that contribute to the formation of AGE’s
A primary contributor to glycation in the body is food. All food has a certain amount of AGE’s, however some are definitely higher even in the raw, uncooked state.

  • Cooking methods can increase the amount of AGE’s
  • Ultimately it is best to consume fruits, vegetables and nuts in raw form.
  • Meats should be prepared at medium and lower temperatures, slow cookers are highly recommended.
  • Avoid excessive browning. Boil, poach, stew and steam food rather than frying. Marinate meats in acidic ingredients, such as lemon juice or vinegar will help reduce the formation of AGE’s during cooking.
  • Increase consumption of Fish, legumes, low fat milk products or non dairy, vegetables, fruits and whole grains.

Sleep. Its importance and its Challenges.

While you sleep your body heals. Sleep is fundamental when it comes to the restorative processes in your body including your skin. Deep sleep is important to produce our growth hormone that facilitate repair and restoration of tissues and organs. It is said that your skin needs eight hours of rest to fully repair the skin. So, there is something to: “Getting your beauty sleep”

In 2013, physicians at University Hospitals Case Medical Centre conducted clinical trials aimed to prove that sleep quality impacts skin function and aging.

The findings clearly showed that poor sleepers had increased signs of aging and slower recovery from a variety of environmental stressors such as U.V rays.

Glycation in the Golden Years In the treatment Room

Since AGE’s are created exogenously and endogenously, the consultation process for this group needs to be better understood in terms medications, genetic factors, illnesses, chronic stress, diet, sleep etc. that are impacting the client’s skin. Removing any potential exogenous contributors to AGE’s will help to support anything you do in the treatment room. Things to think about:

  • Use of Medications
  • Genetics
  • Diet and Overall nutrition
  • Hormonal Imbalances
  • UV exposure and smoking
  • Current skin routine
Ingredients and Products to Consider in the Treatment Room and For Home Care

In the treatment room, this age group will require highly customised treatments focused on removing aged collagen, removing the excess build up of AGE’s that have accumulated in the skin and stimulating the formation of new collagen, while strengthening and rebuilding the skin.

Often there is significant reduction in barrier function, so we need to provide anti inflammatory support to rebuild the barrier and its function

Enzymes
Enzymes such as papain and Bromelain offer a gentle way to exfoliate

Peels
Peels will further deepen the level of Exfoliation eliminating some of the accumulated damage from years gone by. Using gentle acids such as L-lactic, L- tartaric, malic and Kojic acids and possibly Salicylic will provide anti inflammatory support while stimulating cell turnover. I do prefer a mix of Glycolic, Mandelic and Lactic acids. Together they offer strength in action with hydration from the Lactic and anti-inflammatory properties of Mandelic acid with additional firming and toning.

A word of warning: Avoid high percentage peels on very mature skin. 30% would be the highest with a pH of 3.0 at the lowest. At this time of life all signals and repair systems are slower to act and therefore recovery from anything too strong will not yield the results you want. It can in some cases result in a longer than expected downtime for this age group. Build up your peels and layers of peels over time. With each peel the skin will slowly get stronger with a somewhat faster response time.

Astaxanthin: Known as the King of Antioxidants this ingredient disrupts glycation by neutralizing free radicals and inflammation that contribute to AGE’s formation. It inhibits the formation of AGE’s but also supports collagen synthesis and protects the fibers from degradation, therefore helping to maintain elasticity.

TR-6 This time reversal complex is multi targeted providing multiple benefits to correct the visible signs of aging in all skin types, regardless of age or ethnicity. It is a remarkable blend of 6 unique age corrective technologies.

Matrixlift Technology: Is a synergistic blend of three ingredients proven to prevent and enhance the removal of Glycation and AGE’s, protect skin and cell structures and reverse the signs of glycation.

Matrlxyl®synthe’6®: A patented facial architectural peptide, supports skin’s natural structure by increasing the synthesis of 6 major elements of the dermis and EDJ, including collagens I, Ill and IV, laminins and hyaluronic acid, along with a chaperone molecule that organizes these proteins during their production in fibroblasts. This remarkable peptide plumps skin from the inside, rebuilding facial contours and smoothing deep lines and wrinkles, particularly on the forehead and crow’s feet area. Clinical studies show Matrixyl synthe’6 provides a 3-dimenslonal decrease in wrinkles from 31% to 100%.

Vitamin C 20% Serum is a stabilized Vitamin C that has been found in clinical studies to assist in building collagenic tissue and brighter skin. Considered a superstar antioxidant, Vitamin C fights off free radicals, slows down the aging process, and reverses the signs of aging. This formula contains 20% Vitamin C which is one of the highest concentrations on the market. It is supported by Resveratrol, Glucosamine and Green Tea for smoother, firmer, plumper skin with diminished visible lines and a healthy, radiant glow. Used at night, Vitamin C is an essential part of the collagen synthesis process. Collagen is the component of the skin that keeps it looking firm and youthful (along with elastin).

Hydralift Serum is the new generation with encapsulated delivery of Hyaluronic Acid and Ultra Filling Spheres TM. This unique serum reshapes, restructures and firms mature skin while resisting dehydration from trans epidermal water loss (TEWL). Certified Organic Lipactive Inca Inchi OilTM rich in Omega 3, 6 and 9, protects and softens the skin by preserving the natural lipid balance. Ultra Filling Spheres TM penetrate the upper layers of the epidermis absorbing water that evaporates from the deep dermis. The volume of the spheres increases, rapidly tightening the skin, smoothing out wrinkles and leaving an elastic skin surface with long lasting hydration. This amazing, results driven serum was originally designed for clients 60 and over, addressing two major concerns of this age group, the formation of deeper wrinkles and the lack of firmness in the jawline.

Enviro Defense SPF 50 is an advanced, lightweight moisturizer plus sunscreen that helps promote pH balance and protect the skin from harmful UV rays. This formula is fortified with organic extracts of Centella Asiatica, Cucumber, Carrot, Parsley and Euphrasia. Vitamin A, C, and E, and pro-aging ingredients to help skin look and feel healthy and hydrated. Can be used alone or layered on top of a moisturizer for skin that is dry. Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide formula protect against photo aging, brightens skin complexion while protecting the skin barrier. Use by itself or add liquid foundation for a great tinted application. Reapply frequency when exposed to direct sunlight.

We’ve all heard the saying “Your Skin Reflects who you are Mind, Body and Spirit.”

By addressing glycation directly, we can help preserve skin elasticity, prevent further aging, and maintain a radiant complexion as we age. To achieve skincare success in the golden years, it’s essential to approach the issue of glycation through joint partnership of professional treatments, medical grade skincare ingredients, a dedicated home care routine, and necessary lifestyle adjustments to help us redefine the way we age.

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